The Rosaleen Dress can be sewn with woven fabric too. But you just need to do a little hack to the back bodice; either add invisible zipper or button. For this tutorial, I will show you how to add button to the back bodice.
First, you need to cut the front bodice (main and lining) and sleeves. Then for the back bodice, instead of cutting the fabric on fold, you need to cut it mirror image and add 1inch allowance as shown below. Cut the skirt piece by adding 2 inches to the width measurement.
Right side together (RST), place the front main bodice over the back main bodice. Pin and sew along the shoulder. Repeat the same step for lining.
Then, place the lining bodice on top of the main bodice matching up the shoulder seams and the center of back bodice. Pin it together and start sewing from the center left back bodice, to the neckline and continue sewing to the center right back bodice.
RST, align the side seams of front and back main bodice. Pin and sew it together. Repeat the same step for the lining. Before turning the main bodice right side out, clip the corner so that when you turn the bodice, the neckline will be in perfect shape. Turn the bodice right side out and press well.
Find the center point of the back skirt and mark. Take a ruler and measure the skirt center point down 3 inches. Then cut that 3 inches open.
Fold the cut edges open. Then finger press them flat. This step is a must to create a straight edge across the bottom.
Cut a placket piece (width 2 inches, length 7 inches). Fold it in half lengthwise and fold one of the edge 1/4 inch to the wrong side. Then pin the right side of the placket unfold edge to the wrong side of the cut edges. Sew it together with 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance towards the placket. Take the folded edge of the placket and fold it down until it just cover over the stitch line on the skirt. Pin it and sew it.
The skirt placket will look like this.
Sew a set of gathering stitch along the skirt and gather the skirt so the width of the skirt matches the width of bodice. Pin the skirt to the main bodice RST. As for the skirt placket, take note that one side of the placket must be folded to the wrong side of the skirt before attaching it to the main bodice. Sew the skirt to the main bodice.
Now we need to enclose the raw edge (the seam that joining the skirt and main bodice). Fold the lining to the wrong side and pin it together with the seams and main bodice.
Then, topstitch. Make sure to catch the seam and lining while sewing.
Sew buttons and buttonholes.
